A project that recreates the past glory of Srinagar’s Maharaj Gunj market, which has disappeared from sight with encroachment and deviations for several decades, throws new light on rare architectural elements introduced in Kashmir by Dogra Hindu kings between 1846 and 1947. Now, Srinagar Smart City Limited and the Kashmir chapter of the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH) have joined hands to conserve vernacular elements of Kashmiri architecture, including colonnaded walkways, decorative pilasters, and exposed moulded brickwork in their efforts to bring that past to life again.
“The [Maharaj Gunj market] area has a rich mix of vernacular and colonial architecture. Most residential buildings lining the streets are mixed use, with shops on the ground floor and living quarters on the upper floors, constructed in the taq or dhajji dewari styles. Some of the houses going up four floors still bear testament to the rich architectural legacy of Srinagar, with highly ornate exteriors and interiors,” Saima Iqbal, principal conservation architect with INTACH, told The Hindu.
One of the approach roads from the beautiful 607-year-old Budshah Tomb has already been uplifted with a subtle colour palette, including lime for the walls and brown for the windows. A uniform, traditional character of fenestrations is already changing the character of the location. Shop shutters are being realigned, and repainted with an appropriate colour. A uniform wooden signage has been designed for all the shops, with standardised typeface and size.
However, the restoration is not easy, considering the scale of deviations and encroachments. ”Most of the buildings have rusting roof sheets, decaying wooden soffits, and eaves boards — all these will be replaced and repaired. To restore the historic character [of the site], many inappropriate interventions are being reversed,” Ms. Iqbal said.
Located in the heart of Shehar-e-Khaas, the interior of Srinagar’s old city, the Maharaj Gunj market was established by Maharaja Ranbir Singh to provide fillip to Kashmir’s trade and commerce.
“In the pre-1947 era, Maharaj Gunj transcended regional boundaries, attracting traders from prominent cities such as Amritsar, Lahore, Karachi, Rawalpindi, and even parts of Central Asia, who embarked on journeys to this bustling hub in their pursuit of expanding commercial prospects,” Saleem Beg, convenor, INTACH-Kashmir, said.
The market once housed Khatri businesspeople, who introduced a different lifestyle to the city. “From primarily dealing in textiles, spices, and copper goods, the market subsequently diversified to include commodities that were unavailable to the local Kashmiri community,” Mr. Beg said.
The market also facilitated the export of prized items from Kashmir, including saffron, shawls, paper, and fruits. “Maharaj Gunj’s strategic location along the banks of the Jhelum river rendered it an attractive destination for traders from diverse locations within Kashmir, particularly those who accessed the marketplace via the river,” Mr. Beg added.
In 1932, Mr. Beg said, a trade directory commended Maharaj Gunj as one of the finest markets in India. “Sheikh Mohalla, adjacent to the market, was a centre of trade and commerce, where Kashmiri art goods, alongside consumables, were traded mostly by Kashmiri traders,” Mr. Beg said.
The Srinagar Smart City Mission’s revival programme is likely to throw a spotlight on the city’s rich cultural heritage, including old shrines, tombs, mosques, temples, and a gurudwara. “Urbanised habitation along the Jhelum river was identified as an important heritage zone in the first heritage listing prepared by eminent conservationist and architect Romi Khosla in 1989,” Mr. Beg added.
“INTACH has built on the work initiated by Romi Khosla, and undertaken digitised mapping of Srinagar with emphasis on the heritage area of the old town. Maharaj Gunj, with its vernacular, monumental, spiritual and riverine heritage figured prominently in this mapping project,” he said.
Mr. Beg said those buildings that are in structural distress will be strengthened before proceeding with any conservation interventions. The project is likely to offer new urban experiences for tourists exploring Srinagar.
“The area is dotted with monumental heritage in the form of shrines, temples, and a gurdwara. The famous 15th century funerary heritage of the Sultans of Kashmir is also there. The project will bring back the historic essence [of the Maharaj Gunj market],” Mr. Beg said.
