British Baker Sparks Outrage in Mexico for Criticising Local Bread Culture
December 17, 2025
British baker Richard Hart has stirred a controversy in Mexico by saying the country lacks a strong bread culture and that its wheat is "not good ... completely highly processed, full of additives." Hart, who opened the Green Rhino bakery in Mexico City in June, also criticised Mexican sandwiches, tortas, for being made with "white ugly rolls that are pretty cheap and industrially made."
His remarks were made during an April episode of the PopFoodie Radio podcast but gained widespread attention recently after food bloggers shared them online. Many Mexicans reacted angrily. Pastry chef Tania Medina said on TikTok, "He wants to be the Christopher Columbus of bread. It's not fair for you to stomp on where you're going to open, and even less so if it's not your country and that country is welcoming you with so much affection, so much love."
Richard Hart, who has worked with chefs Gordon Ramsay and René Redzepi, apologised on Instagram on Monday. He said, "Since I moved to Mexico, I fell in love with the people and this city. However, my words did not reflect that respect – in this country I am a guest and I forgot to act like one."
Hart is the latest British chef to face criticism for altering or insulting national foods, joining names like Jamie Oliver and Nigella Lawson.
In Mexico, where food is a national treasure, these comments hit a sensitive spot. Rodrigo Sierra, who made a viral Instagram video replying to Hart, said, "Mexicans are very defensive of their culture and their traditions. I’m sure Richard Hart didn’t mean it maliciously or out of complete disrespect. What he did do was make a very ignorant comment, without considering the consequences."
The debate also comes amid tensions in Mexico City over rising rent linked to foreign arrivals.
One key issue was Hart’s criticism of the bolillo, a staple white bread roll used daily by Mexicans across all social classes. Sierra replied, "Classifying it as an 'ugly' bread just because it serves the needs of a population that can’t spend 100 pesos on the bread that this baker sells seems to me like a very poor point of view."
Sierra mentioned over 600 types of bread in Mexico including pan de muerto, which is special for Day of the Dead rituals. "Bread is embedded in our culture ... it’s an important part of a Mexican’s ritual," he said. "You can’t say that bread doesn’t have a culture or that Mexicans don’t have a bread culture just because you’re referring to your type of bread. It’s a very Eurocentric view."
The controversy highlights the deep pride Mexicans have in their food and how sensitive they are to outsider criticism.
Read More at Theguardian →
Tags:
Richard Hart
Mexican Bread Culture
Green Rhino Bakery
Mexican Cuisine
Food Controversy
Bolillo
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