Zubair Kirmani, a fashion designer from Srinagar, is changing the face of Kashmir’s pashmina by adding Islamic calligraphy to the delicate shawls. Traditionally known for paisley and floral designs, pashmina now wears verses from the Koran in Kufic calligraphy. Kirmani’s new series, ‘Karahul’, was unveiled at the India Islamic Centre, New Delhi. He says, “The problem is not the lack of heritage; it is repetition.” He stresses that evolving designs is key to keeping the craft alive and economically viable for future generations. Kirmani explains that Kufic calligraphy is a complex art of angular and straight lines that required years of research and technical work to emboss on soft pashmina. He calls calligraphy “an extension” of his earlier geometric designs inspired by Kashmiri ceiling art, not a departure. For him, calligraphy adds “emotion, rhythm, and spiritual depth” to the fabric. Through his brand ‘Bounipun’, Kirmani aims to show that pashmina can go beyond just shawls and become wall art and wearable art with cultural meaning. He says, “This is not a change of trend. It is growth with purpose.” The exhibition invites viewers to see pashmina as a canvas for both heritage and innovation. Kirmani highlights problems facing the pashmina sector, including price competition with fake or blended products and a lack of fresh design ideas. “When innovation slows, global relevance declines,” he said. He warns that shrinking incomes hurt young artisans and threaten the craft’s future. His solution is to focus on authenticity, innovation, and rebranding pashmina as collectible textile art and heritage luxury. Only then can Kashmir’s pashmina regain worldwide respect and keep its rich tradition alive.